For most of my life I have been living in Cebu City, which is only 5 hours away (via a 4-hour bus and a 1-hour ferry ride) from Bantayan , and yet I have only visited this little paradise of an island a handful of times.
Bantayan, which is located near the northern tip of the island of Cebu, is known for –
It’s seemingly unending stretch of quiet, fine-sand beaches in Sta. Fe…
Eggs! Say “Egg Basket” here and chances are that Cebuanos will remember, most of the eggs consumed come from this island paradise…
Ubiquitous roasted pig (“lechon”) during “Semana Santa” or Holy week (ask locals how this came about when it is supposedly the time for fasting). I wonder if this is the reason why droves of people flock there instead of the religious significance of this occasion plus the existence of oldest parish in Visayas and Mindanao in the town of Bantayan…
The source of well-known dried fish, especially the scrumptious crispy “danggit” that has become part of breakfast fare beyond Cebu…
Those are just a few of the reasons why this island is quite a popular place for locals and foreigners to visit. It is not marketed nor known as a party place such as Boracay but is more suited to serene, laid-back, just-chillin’ vacation on an island under the sun.
For how long I wonder will this island be a semi-hidden gem in the archipelago?
Progress has brought a batch of restaurants and places catering to visitors. It is my sincere wish that regardless of these signs, the island will not carelessly be engulfed in greedy commercialism that often befalls Philippine islands which are prime candidates as tourist destinations. In the meantime, I hope I can come more often to enjoy this small island’s charms.
For this semi-planned weekend visit, our trio left Cebu City at 4:00 a.m. and managed to arrive by past 8:00 a.m. at the port of Sta. Fe.
Having eaten hanging rice (aka puso) and grilled pork barbecue on the ferry ride from Hagnaya Port (there’s a couple of stalls near the entrance to the Hagnaya ticketing area which sells these and other items), my ravenous tummy was still a-wailing at 8:30 a.m.
My friend Kikay who traces her family’s roots to this island, and is a long-time Bantayan resident, thoughtfully suggested that we try a place for the second breakfast to tide me over until lunchtime.
I had no plans for the first day beyond our arrival at the port, but guess what? We fortunately ended up having a tummy-filler of a breakfast at Frio Lifestyle Café.
Managed by Dexter, who was also referred to us when we shared that we were checking into Beach Placid – I am pleased to realize that in some ways, Bantayan still has that small-town atmosphere and spirit. Probably everybody knows almost anybody who resides in this island, hahaha!
Transportation is needed to go to this place as it is not located near the tourist places for lodgings or dining options. If you are not in a hurry, you can wait to flag down a tricycle to bring you here. Remember to arrange for transportation from the cafe to bring you to your next destination afterwards -or you might end up walking a loong way.
TIP: If you have a driver’s license for a motorbike and can handle some rough roads, please do rent a scooter. This saves you time and walking effort exploring not just Sta. Fe but the other municipalities such as Bantayan and Madridejos.
The property is separated from the road by a line of tall hedges and some trees, but you will see small signs on a wooden post giving you a hint of what they offer.
On the other side of the road, is what seems to be the edges of a lagoon with mangroves – it is obscured on the cafe-side’s front by hedges which serve as the cafe’s natural fence.
There is sizeable parking area available. A few peacefully grazing cows at the perimeter mooed a bovine greeting to us early comers.
As we toed off our footwear at the steps to the entrance and stepped inside the café, we noted the comfy-looking cushions and soft sofas scattered on the floor, and approved of unpretentious hammocks which tempted us to swing the day and our cares away.
There were funny signs reminding us on how to deal with life’s stresses with our sense of humor intact. An unobtrusive aquarium was at the front of the wooden structure of the café, with brightly colored fishes placidly swimming from one end to another. Feeling zen.
Lively music, appropriate for the time of the day and customers who were there to eat, was playing from speakers near our table. In keeping with the laid-back, small town atmosphere of Bantayan, the appearance and ambiance of the café has this casual vibe and implies the goal of “just chill, life is good”.
We ordered a typical Filipino breakfast of eggs and rice. The difference lies in the main star of the breakfast plate – bacon shone in one, while the other presented crispy danggit (rabbitfish), which hails from Bantayan too! Ketchup and local vinegar (I wish it had a hot siling kulikot though) to pair with our respective dishes were handed over.
We asked for coffee, juice, tea and Dexter kindly accommodated my fervent request for local sikwate (hot chocolate using local chocolate “tablets”) instead of the modern powdered version. It probably made for more work rather than just stirring the mixture inside the cup, but who can resist the opportunity for some sikwate when it is given?
I suddenly noticed somebody outside, diligently cleaning some fresh, lively crabs. Tempting as it was to inquire if they also serve those delicious critters (the island also has delightful fresh crabs to feast on), I restrained myself. After all it was only the first day.
We settled down to eat our breakfast leisurely but with relish. *Burp!* is all I can *burp*.
Torn between using the hammock and playing a jenga game for the first time, I chose the latter and was thoroughly entertained. Beginner’s luck – I won most of the games! Time flew in a blur as we played, listened to the music or swung to and fro on a hammock until we had to regretfully leave as we would be having lunch on the other side of the island. (Omigosh, eating again?)
RECOMMENDATION:
Whether for snacks, breakfast or going for a relaxing break in your routine whilst in Bantayan, do visit Frio Lifestyle Café. Such as a gift you didn’t expect to receive, it turned out to be a satisfying surprise to have our first breakfast here.
Filling food, thoughtful customer service, setting, relaxing atmosphere, customer delight factor, were all pleasing as far as I was concerned. I would definitely visit next time I am in Bantayan. Perhaps for another breakast, some lunch, afternoon merienda or tea-time. Or maybe all three? Hmm…
Visited: August 2018.
All images otherwise indicated are © 2018 Catherine Herrera.