Say “Batanes”, and aside from the scenery, mention of the lighthouses will inevitably happen.
For most of my countrymen, Batanes evokes images of Philippine islands which do not normally follow the usual terrain of the rest of the country, though it also has beaches and mountains found in its sister islands.
Perhaps because of its sweeping rolling hills, panoramic views of the deep blue sea and Mt. Iraya, lopsidedly standing bovine creatures valiantly munching on the sparse grass, as well as numerous steep cliffs subjected to roaring waves carving its rugged surfaces into a wild, untamed appearance – all these and more makes me wax enthusiastic about potential visits because it is unlike the usual islands I have been to.
Batanes is the northernmost province of the Philippines. It is not very easy to visit since at certain times of the year, this area is on the path of visiting typhoons. Strange as it may be, this group of islands is actually nearer to Taiwan than to the rest of the Philippine archipelago.
Batanes is the smallest too – in terms of land area and currently, also of population. The province’s capital is Basco, found in Batan Island.
One of three lighthouses in Batanes is located in Naidi Hills in Basco. If you are staying in town, and are the type to be curious about lighthouses, but appreciate a gorgeous sunset view, I recommend you visit this place.
It is approximately a 1-km hike from Basco’s plaza / municipal hall. The first time we went there, it was via a hired van.
The second visit was unplanned. It was due to the lighthouse looking close enough to be done via a hike, from where we were checking out their town hall that we decided to try our jelly muscles as we had finished our touring for the day.
You can ask the locals about the road leading to the lighthouse. There was at least one school we passed by where the schoolchildren happily pointed the path to us. We had a leisurely hike upwards a smooth road, passing by houses and other small buildings and it took us about 20 minutes.
The Basco structure was completed in 2003. Its location is where the first lighthouse in Basco was built. It was the site of the American period telegraph facilities which connected Batanes to the government at that time. Most of the buildings in that area was destroyed during World War II by the Japanese Imperial Army bombings.
The Basco Lighthouse is a 6-story white building with a viewing deck on the fifth floor. You can go inside the lighthouse and jostle with some other people to take in the view of the whole of Batan Island (where Basco is) and spot Mount Iraya in the distance. On a clear day, you can also see Sabtang Island (southwards) and Itbayat Island (northwards). Visitors who linger long enough though, catch the view of a beautiful setting sun over the vast expanse of the sea.
In our second visit, we had lingered enough for it to be dinner time. We spied tables being set up and found out that arrangements can be made to have dinner on the grounds of the lighthouse. I think it was the same cafe found in Tukon (the one on the grounds of Fundacion Pacita).
Imagine that! Having dinner with a view of the sunset (if it’s set up early enough) and the rest of Batan Island the surrounding sea. That is another treat we will have to try another day.
Visited: March 2018.
All images © 2018 Catherine Herrera.